Vaka Arioi – Reconstitution au Marae (Heiva i Tahiti): a Festival

This was a highlight for us as it was a traditional re-enactment of a ceremony that use to take place, in a spot it use to actually take place in (a archeological site/park). Unlike the Miss Tahiti beauty pageant that we went to that started at 8pm and lasted until ??? (we left at 1am), this show was only 2 ½ hours long. All the costumes were made out of natural materials like palm fawns, flowers, shells, grass, feathers, etc. They were amazing! And then, the dancing was so cool, but I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.
Anyhow, this is where we met Korrina and her two young boys. They had rescued this very tiny kitten from the middle of the street and were trying to nurse it (we were guessing it was only about 4 weeks old). So, I got some quality cute kitten time in.

Rounding the Island

Having friends in places around the world is great. Calling on our new friend from Huka Ua, we met up with Elisabeth who showed us around. That weekend however, she was taking off to Bora Bora to met up with friends (Genieve, being one of them) for the 3 day holiday weekend, and to see some of the Heiva celebrations on another island. (The Heiva is a month long heritage festival celebated in different ways on all the islands in French Polynesia.) So, she lent us her car from Saturday until Wednesday morning when Brian had to pick her up from the airport, and left us with a list of activities/happens in Tahiti. Totally Awesome!
First day with the car, Brian, Liz and I took off towards Paparo to see the junior surf competition. We ended up not only see that, and going up to the Belvedere on Tahiti Iti, but driving around the entire island! Super fun and it gave us a good feeling of the place.
The next day we needed to move the boat into the repair dock on the other side of town which meant a 4 hour motor to this new shipyard. Once secured, Lydia got off the boat to go Couchsurfing & Liz went along for a couple of nights. As it turned out, Liz’s visa expired July 6th and she had to leave the country – no exceptions, no extensions! Totally bummed out – her and I, she left the boat for good as well. No more girls rule, it’s back to 3. Anyhow, Monday, Brian and I took off for a couple’s getaway since we had the car till Wednesday. This time going around the island the other direction and stopping at some of the places we didn’t get to the first time.

First up, a visit to the 3 cascades – waterfalls. After being shown where to go to find the road to the trailhead (some locals had to drive us there), we set off for a hike. I didn’t expect it to be so marked or close to the parking lot. Everything on the other islands was a trek, and completely unmarked. It was nice and all 3 falls were pretty big. Next, was the blowhole. This would not have been spectacular except for the fact it was coming out of the tunnel next to the road. So weird!

Inside the restaurant

Exploring the other side of Tahiti Iti (you can not drive all the way around it), we stopped in at this little Beach front restaurant called “La Plague de Maui”. What a find and the owner made some suggestions of things to do/see. We tried to obtain some accommodations at these very cool eco bungalows, but alas they were all booked up. However we did end up staying in this very swanky place that Elisabeth took us for sunset cocktails: http://www.spmhotels.com/resort/tahiti

We enjoyed Maneva so much that we stayed another day. Then it was back to reality and the sailboat life. I just needed a little vacation.

Getting to Tahiti

We motored over to the marina, just south of the capital city of Papeete. By time we got through the reef and located a spot to anchor, the day was almost done. The place was a parking lot but Brian managed to secure the “Morrison” spot, just in front of the dinghy dock –schweet, schweet.
Hitting the ground running, we had just a few short minutes to find our yacht agent so Brian could get his replacement debit card (the one that got eaten in the machine in Sayulita, Mexico). Whew, we just made it, got the package (which I received a b-day card & some cash – thanks Kay!), made an appointment to check in the next day with the yacht agent, and then luckily plopped down at the adjacent restaurant just in time for happy hour. Awesome.

Moorea

Again, we budgeted a day to day and a half to complete this 135nm to Tahiti. Again we were waylaid, with us finally arriving on the island of Moorea (right next to Tahiti and the place where the PPJ party was being held) on Saturday evening. We were spent as it was a hard sail with the wind really kicking up the last 12 hours making it difficult. It was a beat to the bay where the 70 other boats that did the jump were anchored. Most had sailed over from Tahiti that day also in a PPJ regatta. The big party/celebration was to be the next day and I was looking forward to it. We anchored in the furthest cove away from the masses, but closest in to shore in Robinson’s Cove.

The next morning it was raining and the festivities were to begin at 9:30am. Oh well, in we went, arriving sopping wet. It was all well worth it – a very fun occasion indeed. I learned how to crack open a coconut and paddle a 6 person outrigger! I’m stoked!!! Survivor here I come!

The next day Liz, Don, Brian, & I decided to go ashore for a hike up to the Belvedere (the lookout). Along the way we stopped at the local farm renowned for its jams, coffee, and vanilla bean products. I had the most excellent coffee, used the loo, purchased some gifts, and off we went. At the lookout we ran into a bunch of other cruisers who had the same idea. After chatting for a bit Brian, Liz, and I decided to venture on as I had spied a dirt trial off to one side. Being adventurous, we hiked into the foliage heading towards the sounds of water. I was sure their must be a waterfall and with the deluge of rainfall, it was a pretty good assumption. If their wasn’t one to begin with, surely their would be one soon. It was just so cool to be in it – the hills, the rain, the great outdoors – terra firma. As we got closer to the sounds of running water we ran into some people we met the night before (at an insane party on this huge sailboat). They all had red markings from some tree root all over their face and body, and had just come from this “amazing waterfall”. When asked about how to obtain the body paint, they wild eyed and excitedly exclaimed “the Monkey, the Monkey”. Then they told us all about the waterfall and how they climbed up it, how cool it was, etc & off they ran. Yeah, we are so there.

We never found the tree root or flower to obtain the paint but we did have a great time playing and bathing in the waterfall. Liz even washed her clothes. I was just so grateful to have a shower, and to have plenty of water to shave and wash my hair. Yeah, I carry that stuff in my purse wherever I go. One lesson I have learned is you never know when or where you will find a shower, and one should never pass up the opportunity – Boy Scout rules. Hike on!

So we thought we could just go down the dirt path that our friends came up and arrive back down in the bay we were anchored in. After all, they came up that way? Why we thought we should listen to people shouting “the Monkey, the Monkey”, I don’t know. Anyhow, I guess we missed the sign for the trail. Oh yeah, what sign! Anyhow, we were going down for a while and at the same time transversing the mountain. However, 1 ½ hours later, and when we started ascending, we realized it wasn’t going to happen. Standing on the ridge that divided the island, I convinced the others to just keep going, hike over and down the other side. Then just hitch a ride back. In Moorea there is really only one road, and it goes around the perimeter of the island.
We got a bit more than we bargained for but it was super fun. The trail we came down on had some storm damage, and we had to scramble over some fallen trees, and wiped out bridges. We made it down to the “nature center”, got our bearings, and then took off towards the main paved road. Then it really started raining which was good because I had gotten totally muddy again and needed another rinse.
Who’s going to pick us up now? Three totally soaked strangers who spoke very little French. Well, this very nice man in a very nice Audi, that’s who. He was just out for a drive and asked us where we wanted to go. Right on! 25 km would have been a really long walk especial after a 6 hour hike!
We left the next day for Tahiti. Moorea was beautiful and I highly recommend it.

See all the beautiful Moorea photos by clicking here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157624517975862/

The Tuamotu’s

Due to our tight timeline the plan was to visit the atoll’s of Ahe, Rangiroa, and possibly Tikehau. Of course things being as they are, we were waylaid by a serious lack of wind. The estimated 3 – 4 day journey to the Tuamotu’s took us 7 days and some tough decisions had to be made. The axe came down and it was decided we would only be able to visit Rangiroa. However, this is the most popular and biggest of all the atolls in the Tuamotu’s chain.
Navigating our way through a narrow channel that was severely ebbing, it looked like a white water river, but we didn’t care we wanted in, we arrived mid morning. Getting our bearings, we anchored and the girls jumped in for a swim.
We only made it to the next boat over and then Brian picked us up. Off to town we went, with Lydia deciding she would just swim in. After scoping out the area (you could walk from the lagoon to the opposite shore on the pacific in 10 minutes max), we stopped in a little out of the way resort/bungalow place for cocktails. The deck was right on the water, overlooking the channel that we had come through earlier that morning. Liz and I ate the best ice cream I might have ever had (vanilla bean, coconut, and honey flavored).
The next day, Brian, Liz, and I hitched a ride to town, 7.5 miles away. As we walked past the channel, who did we see come through? Yup, Escapade - The little boat that could and they were not having any fun managing the ebbing current either. Anyhow, we spent all day in town but at last were successful in getting on the internet, and finally getting some cash. The bank’s ATM’s don’t work when they lose their electronic connection and you just have to wait. Ahhh, the island life. We attempted to go wine tasting but the cellar was closed due to a “financial re-organizing”. Hmmm, too bad. We also visited a pearl farm but really the place for Tahitian pearls would have been on Ahe. That was too bad as well.
Well, we had a date with a lady Lydia had met the day before and were invited to her house for drinks. Somehow all 5 of us managed to find Claudine’s place and arrive within minutes of each other. She proudly showed us her magnificent guest house and property. She was expanding and had purchase some bungalows from the failed hotel we were anchored in front of. She is located on the Pacific side, not the lagoon side however. It was awesome but not to wear out our welcome, we dismissed ourselves at the hour of 8pm.
Due to the limited timeframe we had another choice, a pink sand beach or a visit to the Blue Lagoon. The blue lagoon won out and bright and early we were off & motoring the 15 nm across the lagoon to check it out. We arrived around 11am, dropped the dinghy in the water, and took off towards the shore. On the way, huge manta rays swam by and Brian quickly cut the motor, donned his snorkel gear and went in, followed quickly by Liz and Lydia. They swam with the Mantas and it was so cool. As we approached the area near the lagoon, there were hundreds of black tipped reef sharks of all sizes in the water. The lagoon, within the lagoon, was created by this amazing reef.
We dropped the dinghy anchor just outside the blue lagoon, made a plan to met back, and all jumped into the water.
The lagoon was amazing. It was a big pool of blue water. There were some sharks and a bazillion sea cucumbers but not much else. It was still neat but the snorkeling was best on the outside (but this was still within the main lagoon). So, we took off for the reef. This is the new best spot I have ever snorkeled and it was so warm in the water. Kitty in paradise.
Alas, it was time to go and we needed to motor back across as the only 2 channels out were on the other side. Tahiti here we come!
PS – I’m forty now.

I can not seem to post any photos on blogger so to view the pics click here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157624365033363/
Meow

THE MARQUISES- Ua Poa

Ua Poa

This was to be the last island we would visit in the Marquesas. It was a quick day sail over and when we made landfall, we immediately went to the grocery store. Liz had to go to the doctors for a cut toe injury. Anyhow, getting some provisions was paramount. However the next day we moved around the corner to a very cool little bay called “D ‘ Hakahetau”.
It was just getting better and better, each island. The snorkeling here was the best so far. Volleyball, ping pong, and hiking oh my! It was a blast. However, Monday night (June 7th) it was time to blast off. We wanted some time in the atoll’s (Tuamotu’s) and needed to be in Tahiti on the 19th.

And the adventure continues…….

ALL PICTURES @: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157624263022817/

THE MARQUISES- Nuka Hiva

Nuka Hiva

The next morning we headed off to the “big island”, as this is the largest island of the Marquise’s and the most populated. Landing in the principal bay of Taiohae, we promptly found a spot to anchor amongst the many boats already there. Escapade immediately stopped by for a visit and we chatted until dark.
The next morning it was off to shore. After a quick visit to the Gendarmarie, then the bank for some moola, it was off exploring. This “main” city was really just one long curving street the length of the entire bay, ending with Rose Cosar’s famous Museum. It had 2 or 3 grocery stores, a couple of restaurants, a few pensions, Rose’s place, and not much else. The dinghy dock however had a cultural center, fresh market, an internet spot, and a Crepe Cart! The last, being my utopia. Latte and a fromage crepe- yummy and some ice cream.

Brian going to the bank

Talking & meeting a lot of cruisers, we ran into Liz who was looking for a ride. (We also ran into Elizabeth and Genieve that day. So fun.) Great, we needed crew and I really wanted another girl aboard. After speaking with her & getting the scoop (She was on that Junk replica that was run over and sank by a supertanker off the coast of Taiwan last year! Whoa, heavy) we left for a couple of days to go around the corner. Daniel’s Bay was the spot and it took just under 2 hours to motor over to this next bay. Again Escapade was already there.
The next morning, Brian, Jim, Brendan & I took off on a rain filled hike up to the waterfall. It was amazing single track walk through the jungle up a sheer walled canyon, but we forgot the camera. No matter, the picture is in the front section of the Lonely Planet South Pacific guide. If that doesn’t say anything about its beauty, I don’t know what else would. On the way back, we stopped by the fruit lady’s house and picked up a hank of Bananas. We don’t need those for a while.

In Daniel's Bay

Saturday we motored back over to Taiohae as Jen was expected to fly in. This is the same person we waited for in Hiva Oa. Alas, it was not meant to be. Don received an email right before he was to send a taxi to fetch her that she flew back to the States instead! What? Really. WTF! Anyhow, so glad we met Liz.
That evening Rose, a local legend, was hosting a cruisers party in her almost completed clubhouse. It was potluck with Rose providing some traditional Marquisian dishes. It was a lot of fun and here we met are soon to be 5th crew member Lydia. She was heading to Australia and she needed to get there by Nov. 3rd. Perfect. Two days later, and another trip to the Gendarmarie, it was official; we were now a crew of 5. Off we sailed up to Baie Anaho on the Northeast part of Nuka Hiva. It was really nice here. Swimming, snorkeling, diving and hiking – no store, no bank, a population of 8 people. Liz, Lydia and I hiked the pass over to the next bay, Atiheu in search of ice cream. Liz had been here just a week before on another boat so she led the way. It was steep but super fun. Boy, am I out of shape. So, I did it again the next day with Liz & Don, as Liz needed to post some critical paperwork. Guess what, Escapade showed up. So who’s following who? :) Anyhow, I took off the next day with Brendan and Jim in search of the oldest ruins in the Marquesas. We found them but went way off trail. We also found some green lime shaped lemons, some oranges, and loads of mangos – Yum I love mangos! I can honestly say it was a fruitful endeavor – Meow :) Jim being a fellow Gemini, I baked him a pineapple upside down cake that I gave him the night before we left. MMmmmm, cake.

SEE ALL PICTURES @: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157624387778206/

THE MARQUISES- Ua Huka

Ua Huka

It was almost 70nm to our next destination which meant an overnight sail. We took off mid day so we would not arrive in the middle of the night. Best intentions but we were a lot faster than we thought and arrived around 2 am! However, it was a full moon so Brian was confident about anchoring in the private bay of Baie Haavei. The next morning, we awoke and took a look around (it was beautiful). Since you needed permission to land on the beach, we decided to go around the corner to the “invisible Bay”. Maybe we could obtain it and / or go to the famous first museum of the Marquesas. It was not to be as we were foiled by a rather larger container / passenger ship blocking the entire entrance. Okay, well, off to the next bay, Baie D’Hane. Third times a charm! The little village was a lot bigger than expected. As we walked up the street and deeper and deeper into the island, it just got prettier and prettier. We had read there was a bakery in this bay and we were on a mission to find it. Along the way, we found the cultural center, a church, a Magesin (little store), some very nice people, and then a cruise ship banquet at the local hotel. Being bold, Don marched right in and started filling a plate full of fresh local fruit. That was until he was told otherwise. However, they did end up feeding us and we met some really nice ladies, vacationing on the island. Elisabeth was from Paris but was living and working in Tahiti, and Genieve was from the Basque region of France but living & working in Bora Bora. Anyhow, we all made fast friends, as they were not part of the banquet either. After lunching, we all decided to a hike up to some archeological ruins (platforms). We were way up there!Anyhow, we invited the ladies back to the boat for Don’s famous popcorn and a glass of wine. It was popcorn hour after all! After exchanging info, we learned that they were heading over to Nuka Hiva before heading home. This was great as we were heading that way as well. Maybe we could meet up, but at the very least we now had contacts in Tahiti and Bora :)

On the trail

ALL PICTURES @: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157624387618356/

THE MARQUISES- Tahu Ata

Tahu Ata

This was the second island in the chain we were to visit and we were all anxious to get going. Although it was only 4nm across from Hiva Oa, it seemed a world away. It is pretty remote in terms of amenities. We arrived just before sunset and anchored in the nice little bay of Vaitahu. The next morning however, our captain Ben was asked to leave the boat. WTF!!! Okay so now it was just us three, with Brian becoming the default captain. We decided to go to the next bay over with a better anchorage & snorkeling. It was only 30min away and once there, we promptly took the dinghy into the little village of Hapatoni. What was truly amazing was this place had street lights. The road was dirt however. We quickly located one of the many carvers (to which this island is famous for) and looked at his wares. Don tried to get a carving of his boat logo (a Nyami Nyami) made but alas, everyone was busy as they prepared for the upcoming Heiva (massive cultural party) in Tahiti / Moorea / Bora Bora. We watched the sunset from the beach as the bugs devoured our ankles before heading back to the boat. That evening another boat anchored in the bay with us – s/v Escapade. We had met Jim and his son Brendan on Hiva Oa the first day we got there. Their boat is 34’ and it took them 38 days to do the crossing. I would have gone insane!!! Anyhow, we invited them over to the Spirit of Nyami Nyami for movie night. It would be one of many run ins with the guys. The next day we decided to sail up to Baie Hana Moe Noa. We saw this place when coming over to the island. This was picture perfect, with a large, deserted white, coconut lined, sand beach. Now we are talking! There were several boats anchored here as it was also a good snorkeling spot. The following day we had a BBQ / picnic on the beach with Jim & Brendan as they also came to this bay. We snorkeled and hunted green coconuts as we were the only people on the beach. Cool.

PICTURES @: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157624387504978/

THE MARQUISES- Hiva Oa

Hiva Oa

This is the first place we made landfall, home of Paul Gauguin and the city of Atuona. More like a village if you ask me, but then again it is the 2nd largest city of the Marquises. Wow, really? It’s tiny but very cute and at least it has ice cream cones! I had two straight away.
We spent 8 days here’s waiting for a crew member that would never show up, to replace Ali who decided to fly home to take care of his shoulder. Apparently it looked like he needed some surgery – ouch! Later we discovered that he had actually broken a bone in his shoulder. Wow.
I don’t know what I expected, maybe sandy beaches and light, turquoise water, but it was nothing like that. Our anchorage was crowded with many boats and the water was so murky that Brian could hardly see more than 1 foot when scuba diving the anchors. So I didn’t go swimming. The Marquises as I would find out are very dark - Dark green water color, dark dirt and rocks (well from the volcanoes that formed the islands), and dark foliage. That is when it was not completely dry, as in California dessert dry. The island seemed to be at opposites, as in either or, and there were not a whole lot of beaches. It was different.
However, the fruit was abundant and the people friendly. Actually, they would usually pick you up when making the 5 km trek to town from the anchorage, and force fruit on you – bags and bags of papaya, starfruit and pomplumuse (a delicious type of grapefruit). Hitching (as in hiking) was the only method of transportation other than walking. Did I mention this place is small? Anyway, there were no café’s and only 2 restaurants in town. One just outside of downtown and so expensive, and another just in town that was only open unusual hours of which we never really knew.
The one thing that is a must to mention is the internet tree. If you sat in this archeological park, in the center of town, by this tree, you could pick up unsecured wireless for free! This was huge. Other than that you had to pay an outrageous amount to use the computers at the post office and let’s just say everyone who tried this method never made it online. Internet tree it is! Just wish there was a power outletJ.

May 11th
Today I went to the Paul Gauguin museum. Although this place had no original artworks by Gauguin it was still a lovely experience & and very nicely done. Highly recommended as it is really the only thing in Altuona. Anyhow, I just wanted to share this quote by the artist in a letter to his wife:
“For I am an artist & you are right, you are not mad, I am an artist that I have endured so much suffering to pursue my quest otherwise I will consider myself a renegade, which I am for quite a few people. Anyway I do not mind. What worries me most is less poverty then constant impediments to my art which I cannot pursue as I feel it & that I manage to do it with out poverty tying my arms. You tell me that I am wrong to stay away from the artistic center (Paris). No I am right. I have known for a long time what I am doing and why I do it. My artistic center is my brain, nowhere else & I am strong because I am never deviated by others and that I do what is with in me…”
Yeah, that speaks volumes to me. I like him more now then ever.

May 14th – Random thoughts
Eating starfruit – pick, wash, & eat – so good, my favorite. They are so orange in color here, not like the states where they import them an unripe yellow/green color. It is so weird to be here. It feels like I lost an entire month of my life. Well not lost but misplaced, like I was in some sort of spatial anomaly where time didn’t exists, just water. Then you arrive in a place and life is normal all around you. It’s just a weird feeling.

ALL PICTURES @: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157624394270646/

Books I read on the Puddle Jump crossing

1. “Simply Divine” – fun and easy read
   
2. “How Starbucks Saved my Life” by Michael Gates Gill – this was a non-fiction book with a lot of good insight. I really enjoyed it.
   
3. “Goodnight Nobody” by Jennifer Wiener – Witty, modern romance / murder mystery book. Great read. I really liked the non cookie cutter ending.
   
4. “Dead as a Doornail (a Sookie Stackhouse novel) – The HBO series – true blood is based on this book series. It is non stop twists and turns with lots of romance and humor. I blazed through it and can’t wait to read some of the others in the series.
   
5. “Angels & Demons” by Dan Brown – 710 pages in 2 ½ days, that good! Need I say more?
   
6. “The Cat Who Could See Red” by Jilian Jackson Braun – okay so I picked up these really old books from the 80’s because it had cats in them. I’m a sucker. They are not as sophisticated or a fast read, and the cats didn’t talk and the author didn’t share their thoughts, but I still enjoyed them.
   
7. “The Cat Who Could Read Backwards” by Jillian Jackson Braun
   
8. “The Cat Who Turned On & Off” by Jillian Jackson Bruan – I actually like this one the best of the of 3.
9. “Monsoon” by Wilbur Smith – an epic saga about 4 brothers and their adventures in life, love, and sailing. It was 950 pages and took me only 4 or 5 days to read. It was so good.

The Kat Log - Part III, the final chapter

Day 15 – Friday April 30th
It’s the last day of the month. Rainy day start and just wanted to curl up and watch movies. Days are blending together now. The big event of the day is dinner. No cooking for me tonight-yeah. I just laid around reading, sunning, napping, and riding on the bow sprit watching the water.
I don’t know what I expected but not this – weather has been cool & overcast mostly. Everyone said I’d be so bloody hot that I would welcome any rain or wind. Hmmmmmmm. I’m cold.
Tonight’s Dinner: Breaded fresh Ahi and potatoes by Ben & Brian

Day 16 – Saturday May 1st
Well I thought we’d be in Tahiti by this time when we left for s/v Imagine in La Paz on March 5th! Well at least we are doing better than our Med average – we are only 1 month behind in leaving. Oh, and we are not on Imagine. No surprise there as you have to be flexible when boat hitch hiking.
It’s May – WTF!!!
Other WTF moments running through my head:
I’m going to be 40 in a month- yikes!
We are over half way to the Marquises
It’s pouring down rain. (It started last night and has not let up. Thank goodness for icing glass and an enclosed cockpit.)
How much chess can 2 people play? (In reference to Ali and Don’s marathon sessions lasting 4 -5 hours a day, sometimes twice a day.)
Tonight’s Dinner: Beet and parsley fettuccini pasta by Kat

Sidebar: Our daily routine
Night watch
Sleep
Eat
Chess / Read (for everyone else)
Listen to the SSB radio
Watch
Cook Dinner
Dishes
Sleep / Nap
Cards
This routine varies when we:
Run the generator
Run the watermaker
Do laundry
Tack sails
Catch a fish
Watch a movie
Listen to music

Day 17 – Sunday May 2nd
We are getting close to the equator and talks of a Neptune party run wild. Rumors of wearing a tie, lipstick, and a ceremony ensue. “What you brought a tie”, asked Don. “No, a sail tie”, said Ali. You get the picture.
It’s another rainy and grey day today but Brian has stepped up to make bread for us. This is our first attempt.
We watched 3 movies today: Waterworld, Sex in the City, and Beverly Hills Cop (the original). It was super fun and I almost felt normal.
Tonight’s Dinner: Spilt pea soup with homemade wheat bread by Kat & Brian

Day18 – Monday May 3rd
Motoring, wind on the nose but out of the doldrums & rain, I think. We are almost to the equator now – 1*54’.495N 129*04’.12W, 902 nm to go to the Marquises and Paul Gauguin’s playground. I should have been an art history major.
Tonight’s Dinner: Steak & Potatoes with veggies: cabbage, carrots, peas by Don
Day 19 – Tuesday May 4th

EQUATOR DAY!
During my watch 2 – 4pm, eta to the celebration was 3:30pm. We were on track to the Marquesas at a heading of 227 degrees.
I’m going to wear my high heals, white dress and pirate booty swim trunks with gold jewelry. I think that would be an appropriate attire for such an event!
Their will be speeches made and presentations given. I am looking forward to it – s/b fun.

Afterwards: It was super fun but that’s all I can tell you, wogs.

Day 20 – Wednesday May 5th
Stars out. I saw the Southern Cross – looks like a kite.
Tonight’s Dinner: Spaghetti Bolognese by Kat

Day 21 – Thursday May 6th
We are 3 weeks out to sea, and are making great time now with the trade winds finally in our favor.
I am so burnt out on reading. We are going so fast and heeling so much it is hard to really do anything. Fishing is out since we are flying, like 7.7 kts. It is hard to sleep and I am ready for Land Ho!
Four more days maybe?
Tonight’s Dinner: Chicken, rice and bean salad by Brian & Ben

Day 22 – Friday May 7th
Really bored. Burnt out.
Tonight’s Dinner: Breakfast for dinner – Pancakes, eggs & bacon by Ben & Brian

Day 23 – Saturday May 8th
I got a shower today and so needed it. Then I immediately got showered by salt water when a huge wave came through the port side portal and douched me – ugh! So much for trying to be clean. What’s the point?
Tonight’s Dinner: Veggie Couscous and chicken by Kat

Day 24 – Sunday May 9th
Today is our expected day of arrival and we are certainly close. We hope to make landfall by this evening. We have 70.3 nm to go, and our SOG is 6.0 kts so 12 hours to go – keep your fingers crossed.
It’s Don’s Birthday today. I’m making him some cookies to celebrate.
Land Ho @ 5:15pm!
We are now staling for daybreak with 30nm to go. We want to anchor in the daylight.
Ben picks up the VHF radio – “Hello, is anybody out there?” So funny, well at least it was to us. We’ve been away too long.
Tonight’s Dinner: Steak, garlic smashed potatoes, carrots & peas by Brian

Day 25 – Monday May 10th
Arrived at 8:15am into the harbor ~ Hiva Oa, Marquises

HAPPY BIRTHDAY DAD!

SEE ALL THE PPJ PHOTOS @: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157624269685171/

Love you

The Kat Log - Part II

Day 8, 9 & 10 – April 23rd – 25th
Sailing speed picked up. Felt sea sick.
The 8th Dinner: Grilled fresh caught fish, rice and a bean, corn, salsa salad by Ben & Kat
The 9th Dinner: Fish taco’s and rice by Brian
The 10th Dinner: Garlic and Herb pasta by Kat

Day 11 – Monday April 26th
The view has not changed for days. I look out to an ocean of blue – nothing but water all around and it is not going to change anytime soon!
We caught 2 more fish today, bringing our total count to 6. Fishy for dinner, mmmmmmmm good. Or Mahi Mahi, that is “fish, fish” in the Persian language.
Well we are at the half way point in time but not in distance. I was hoping we’d be near the equator but the 3 days of no wind in the beginning of the trip mucked that up.
Hold onto your hat, it’s going to be a long ride. So far no one has lost it, really. They don’t seem insane but how do you tell when present company are all crazy?
Lot’s of time for reflection and to contemplate what & where I want to go in life. I guess I should start to take advantage of this.
Tonight’s Dinner: Polenta bread fresh fish and homestyle chips by Ben & Brian

Day 12 – Tuesday April 27th
3pm - Caught another fish today. Yellow fin and it was huge! Fish on. Carrot crop took a sh*t. Now I am making carrot cabbage coleslaw, carrot cake with cream cheese frosting, for dinner tomorrow we’ll be having carrot ginger soup and carrot cilantro Asian noodle salad. For snacks we’ll be eating carrot sticks….. :)
7:15pm – Yeah, I made cake, well attempted too. It was a disaster – start to finish with me spilling 3 eggs and 1 cup of oil all over the place for starters, and ending with cutting off ¼” of the burnt bottom. It was delicious no matter how it appeared. Definitely worth all the kitty expletives & the melt down that occurred. Poor kitty….
We just got 3 hits on all 3 fishing lines at once! - Very exciting indeed. What do you know, we hooked a shark! However, in all the chaos I ended up losing my Tuna. Kitty sad :(
What a thrilling day – we also had a helicopter fly by. What? Where did they come from? Nobody knows! They did a lap around the boat, thoroughly checking us out, then waved and disappeared into the abyss.
Tonight’s Dinner: Cedar plank teriyaki fresh fish, leftover garlic smashed potatoes, and carrot coleslaw by Brian & Kat

Day 13 - Wednesday April 28th
Hump day – both time and distance. I tried painting my toes today. What was I thinking! I am definitely losing it. I baked a cake yesterday with disastrous effects and today I did this. I guess I am just trying to be normal but I have to realize that I am not. And this is not a normal life. What an epiphany!
Painting toes in a pitching boat put that down in the record books. However, I did have some success and they do look pretty dam good. Nothing a little polish remover couldn’t fix.
It only took 2 hours of lying down to re-cover from feeling sick. I’ve acclimated but it is never going to be 100% for me. I just have to realize that. Not sure if this life is really for me. Jury is still out on this case …………
Tonight’s Dinner: Grilled fresh cedar plank Ahi with an Asian noodle salad by Brian & Kat

Day 14 - Thursday April 29th
9pm – Fishing boat traffic. Got close and everyone freaked out – like we have never dealt with night traffic before! It was crazy but they were showing the wrong mast colors denoting that the vessel was not under command. Then they cut us off and didn’t respond to our radio hails. We eventually had to start up our engines to maneuver but all was over in about 45min.
It was funny that we all panicked but that was only the 2nd boat we have come across so far in the pacific.
Tonight’s Dinner: Curry fish and rice by Kat & Ben

Better late than never - the Kat Log

Okay, so this is long overdue and I have been promising forever, but here are the stories from the beginning.
Pacific Puddle Jump Log
Day 1 – Friday April 16th
Good wind, a good start. We sailed 124 nm. I hope it lasts!
Tonight’s Dinner: Tomato, garlic & basil pasta by Kat

Day 2 – Saturday April 17th
Wind died today, of course. We also had a tomato crop disaster and lost over half of our fresh tomatoes we provisioned with. Whatz up with that! They only lasted a week and were green when we bought them.
Tonight’s Dinner: Pasta Primavera in Alfred sauce with chicken by Brian

Day 3 – Sunday April 18th
I decided that I’d write a book either based on “the litterbox” or the “Kat log” (and no I am not talking about poo here people), to fund my brainchild idea – the Church of Kat. To be expanded, maybe, to the House of the dog. Anyhow, I have some thumbnail designs for it, and it’s gonna be the cats meow :)
Oh, as for sailing, it was a quiet day, literally, like in no wind. So, the guys decided to go for a swim and Ali injured himself when he drove in. Bummer, down another crew member, well ½ a crew as he is still able to stand watch.
No wind = no sailing = no fish :(
I attempted to do La Paz Annie’s Yoga today. I only made it through the floor exercises before I was totally and completely sea sick. It gives new dimension to downward facing dog in a pitching sailboat! I can’t imagine attempting any standing balancing poses like Warrior, but hey, I’m game.
More tomato dishes today. Sad really, that we have to eat all our fresh tomato’s in one shot.
Tonight’s Dinner: Chili con carne / Veggie chili by Ben & Kat

Day 4 – Monday April 19th
4am – It’s early but I actually like this time to myself, alone, on watch. It’s ultra quiet except for the rustling of the rig. My time to contemplate life, love, and what matters. What will be my legacy? So far, I feel I have been like an unmanned sailboat, just adrift, lucky enough to escape major storms or hitting the rocks so far, but aimless none the less.
In these wee hours, I have devised a plan – something great, well to me at least, and that is one of life’s great lessons – follow your heart. Your head tends to over think such ambitions, even to dismiss them as foolish. Not this time.
Art & architecture – creation really are the lasting legacies to mankind. Museums, churches, monuments, works of beauty and awe, these are the things people visit, worship, and covet. They are everlasting, and if they are not, we dig them up and restore them.
Step one, write a book, maybe a children’s book? Step two, advertise & collect donations via the blog, and save book royalties. Also, produce a line of kitty cat products to sell on my website. Then finish the artistic renderings of my designs, and post to a website. Build it and they will come!
2pm the same day – Something to note the days have all been mostly overcast and I am really looking forward to the sun. Go figure - I sent a bunch of pants back to the states (one can only carry so much stuff).
Our little ambassador’s of the sea made an appearance today (dolphins), and they were not so little, huge actually. It never gets old watching them play in the bow wake and watching them watching you. Them so curious of us and us of them, just fantastic!
9pm – Another ultra slow day. I’d be surprised if we did 40 nm – ugh! Still no fish - meow. I’m watching a movie….
I’m going to lose my mind fast at this rate, and only 21 more days to go! I started to write my children’s book. Oh, I got a shower today, ahhhhhhh…….
Tonight’s Dinner: Falafel, Hummus wraps with cucumber, salsa relish by Kat

Side note: Hand Washing
Why do (a lot of, but not all) men feel it is not necessary to wash their hands after taking a leak (especial when peeing overboard)? Yeah, yeah, I’ve heard it before – “well I don’t pee on my hands!” Note to guys – us women, we don’t pee on our hands either! Oh, let’s use that same logic with going super potty, shall we. Do you poop on you hands? You still wash them though don’t you?
You touch all the same stuff – the door, handle, seat, flusher. Even if you pee outside, you still have to whip it out & touch your privates directly. And then, let’s talk about the “shake” off. That action can accidentally hit an unintended target – like your clothing, hands, etc. So why do most men not wash their hands? Really. You know who you are, stop kidding yourselves.
Women don’t handle themselves with direct contact, drip, shake – they use a tissue. Plus all the women I know wash their hands after using the potty, even taking a leak. Just think about it.

Day 5 – Tuesday April 20th
Very uneventful day except we actual sailed, woowho! Avg 4 kts with 7-9 kts of breeze. Okay but it will be nice when we get some good, consistent wind over 10kts. I did a lot of reading today. Started another book and got through the first 100 pages.
Sea sickness is at bay, not talking anything but not feeling all that great either. It is very intermittent though. For the most part I think I am doing really, really well. It helps to be on such a big boat.
Tonight’s Dinner: Pork chops and chili leftovers by Ben & Brian

Day 6 – Wednesday April 21st
Read and slept a lot today. I finished my book “Goodnight Nobody” – great read.
We actually held a good pace sailing. Poled out.
Tonight’s Dinner: Curry chicken / Curry vegetables by Ali (supervisiory role only) & Brian

Day 7 – Thursday April 22nd
One full week of sailing, only did 450 nm total, so we are a little behind. Oh well, what are you going to do? Nothing. Wait for the wind, nothing but time. We are still poled out and now holding an average of 5.5 kts.
I am not feeling so good. I didn’t really sleep last night. It was a rough dinner, or shall I say a rough time cooking. I flipped over the pot of smashed potatoes onto the ground but they stuck to the sides and came out okay. Then I attempted to make biscuits for hamburger buns, wow that was difficult. Everything was flying all over the place, I needed 5 more hands!
Tonight’s Dinner: Hamburgers on homemade rosemary biscuits, smashed potatoes, and zucchini by Kat