Saturday, September 25, 2010

Maupiti- Aug 3rd - 6th

Best place hands down in all of the Society Islands! It is a combination of the pretty lagoons of the atolls (Tuomotu’s) and the beauty of the volcanic islands of the Marquises. It is a smaller, less touristy Bora Bora.

We walked around the island today. It’s that small! It only takes about 3hours to go all the way around. Then, we actually walked across a section of the lagoon where it is shallow, over to one of the bigger motu’s (about a mile). This was so cool!!! We had arrived in paradise!


We stopped in little artisan shops, drank coconut water, well, out of coconuts, bought coconut bread out of the back of a truck, and gleaned as much fruit as we could get our hands on (bananas, mangos, papayas, breadfruit, etc.). It was an eventful day.

The water color was so inviting so we spent a lot of time in it. The first day we got there, we went snorkeling in the channel. The next day we got up and went snorkeling again. Then we walked around the island. Then the following day we went swimming again. This time with a mission – find and swim with the Manta Rays! I ended up being the lucky individual who did that. It was only one and the visibility was not so good but boy, was it huge! It was a great experience. Due to the weather window and sailing conditions anticipated, we left that afternoon for the Cook Islands. Bye, bye French Polynesia! Bring on the English.

Friday, September 24, 2010

Bora Bora

What can I say about Bora Bora, well, it’s cute. I had very high expectations here too, and even though I wasn’t let down, it wasn’t really what I expected either. However, it is a resort island, bungalows everywhere on the motu’s that surround the island, but being on a boat gives one a different perspective. If I had come to Bora on my honeymoon for 4 or 5 days, I think that I would be thrilled. It is pretty, but there is not much to do here except eat, drink, swim, and sleep (leading me to dub it "Boring Boring" - J/K!). There are a few little boutiques to visit and some shopping but everything is very expensive (as usual). Anyhow, we managed to do a short hike over the top of the island which was fun. Then Bri and I went in the opposite direction from Mona & Paula, walking on the road back to the Bora Bora YC. This was insightful as well as fun. We met some other tourists who needed directions and ended up getting a ride with them to see some of the cannons from World War II (relics). The next day we rented electric bicycles (Bri, Mona & I). We stopped in a tiny maritime museum, ran into some other cruisers whom we turned on to fresh coconut water (at a local roadside stand), laid on the beach, went for a snorkel, and dined at the famous “Bloody Mary’s” for lunch. We couldn’t afford dinner! We also stopped at a crazy pearl farm and some cute galleries with amazing artwork.

Old WWII Cannon

At the coconut vendor, again!
On yer bike!

Well, it was small but good!

Lunch at Bloody Mary's and making (fury) friends

One wacked out totem at the pearl farm

However, most of the activities and places to be are out on the surrounding motu. All the resorts are located not on the mainland, but on these tiny reef islands. We ended up hoping on the Hilton shuttle and having drinks at the resort. The four seasons wouldn’t let us on their’s. It was eerily quite but very beautiful. After a week of being here we were all itching to leave. However, as always, it is weather permitting. With that said we ended up staying for a cruisers potluck which was very nice before heading out.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Raiatea & Taha’a (July 22nd - 26th)

I was so looking forward to Raiatea, since it has one of the biggest cities outside of Papette (Tahiti) and I have heard of it before. Also, coming from Huahine where we had a fab time and it was so beautiful, expectations were now very high indeed. So, to no surprise we were a little let down by this island.
Anchoring was difficult as it was very windy and the water very deep. In the end, after 3 hours of trying, we finally picked up a mooring buoy. The next morning, in to town we went. The plan, rent scooters. The reality, a rental car with bungalow combo package was cheaper, with 4 of us splitting the car and Brian & I taking the bungalow for an extra $20. Don was doing his own thang.
That evening we buzzed into town looking for some dinner and night life. It was Friday night after all, but the place was a ghost town. We ate pizza in our bungalow and watched movies on the computer – nice.

Hiking a waterfall - literally

Brian getting a "water treatment" massage

Cute little pad out on the water
Okay, yeah, so were addicted to coconut water- yummy!

View all the pic's from Raiatea: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157625001371660/

Across the lagoon, as both islands are surrounded by one reef, we sailed over to the smaller, quieter, Taha’a. Getting advice from many, we anchored in front of the Taravana Yacht Club on a free mooring ball. Actually, it was the only mooring ball we could find and it belonged to a private person who was not around. Lucky for us. Anyhow, we promptly went ashore and met Richard, the Y.C. owner/operator. After some quick advice, Paula and I ran off to see the pearl farm next door and Brian, Mona & Don ran over to the bakery to place our order. Everyone joined back up to see all the beautiful pearls.

The following day was Paula’s Birthday so we all decided to take her our for dinner at the yacht club. But first, a hike was in order. On are way over to the trailhead, we stopped at a vanilla farm and got the full tour. It was great and the owner very gracious, & informative, especially for being a Sunday. Once we got to the next town over, Paula and Don did their own thing while Bri, Mona and I set about hiking across the island (via trail). The view from the top was amazing as you could see both Taha’a and Raiatea, and the reef that encircled both.

Sorting vanilla bean - super fun

However, it was a bit muddy. Our plan, reach the city (the biggest of the island), locate a pay phone, and call a cab for the ride back. None of us had an intention of walking the 12k back (by trail, 30 some kilometers by road). However, you know what best laid plans get you…. Nowhere! The biggest town was no more than a church, a couple of houses, a school, 2 stores that were closed of course, and a gas station with that pay phone we were counting on, that we never found. Hmmmmm, I guess we were just going to have to hitch. As we started out walking we were starting to get worried. All the cars were going the opposite direction and those not, were plum full. Mona’s iphone ran out of minutes – drats! We first got picked up but only made it 1/3 of the way. We then got a ride from a guy dropping his women off to work at the only resort on the island, and he drove us out of his way all the way back to the boat. Awesome! Dinner at the Y.C. was terrific, and a perfect way to cap off the day.

Hitching in the back of a truck

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Huahine- July 18th - 22nd

It only took us less than a day to get here from Tahiti. It already was a nice change of pace. I was more than ready to have left the big city of Papette. Where do I start, - well, we came, we saw, we biked. Actually, this was one of my favorite islands so far, better than Rangiroa or Moorea. This island was beautiful and had a surprisingly gargantuan super market! They also had a happy hour bar and some roulette food carts (Fish Burger, mmmmmm) that were great for snacking.

The floating Pearl Farm - so cool!

Paula, Mona, Bri and I set off early the next morning on new rental bikes. Paula immediately turned hers in for an older, but smaller model - one that fit her better. Then, we were off. This was a blast and a great way to see everything. We visited all the Marae’s (archeological, ceremonial sites) along the water’s edge, took in some pristine beach views, went for a swim, visited an art gallery (just missing the artist or curator), broke for a hike, and took a free boat shuttle out to a pearl farm. Lastly, we feed the massive river eels and climbed a huge hill. Mona’s bike peddle fell off just a couple kilometers from the finish of our loop ride. Guess they forgot a screw in that new bike!


Off the bike & on a hike




Brian & Mona

The beautiful gallery

What a poser!

Off to the super market we ran for a much deserved ice cream and who did we run into? Jim and Brendan off s/v Escapade. We had run into them in Tahiti even though we were in different anchorages. The sailing community is a very small world. The morning we were to set sail so was a traditional Polynesian boat, complete with a live pig on board. There was a festival honoring their voyage that the gang went to, but I stayed behind to have a little alone time - ahhh. We would see this boat again and again at different islands.


View all photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157624876841093/

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Bastille Day - Wednesday July 14th

We decided that we should stay in Tahiti to bear witness to Bastille day since Polynesians celebrate both French and the island holidays - Best of both worlds. So, we met up with Elisabeth who took us downtown to witness the paddle boat races. There were many races of different canoes, 5 seat, 7seat, and double canoes.
Genevieve & Elisabeth
In the afternoon we drove down to the museum near Elisabeth’s house to witness some traditional Polynesian games – coconut shucking, palm tree climbing, rock tossing, spear throwing, etc. This was followed by happy hour at our favorite spot – the Dinghy Bar.
We wrapped up the evening on board Nyami Nyami for dinner. No fireworks to be seen. What’s up with that? Turns out that while the Polynesians enjoy the day off, they still don’t like French rule.

Monday, September 20, 2010

Hanging out in Tahiti

Once upon a time, in a far away land (aprox. 3 months ago)....

After all the World Cup matches concluded (and I watched a lot of them very early in the am, the 3rd place match being the best), boat repairs were made (sail sewing, bowsprit welding, and running rigging reversal). The eclipse happened. We had a 96% coverage-blockage, whatever, it looked like the last sliver of the moons cycle. It got dim but not dark. Brian said it was like the Kentucky derby, months of hype and build up and its over in 5 minutes. Yup. I didn’t really have a whole lot to do while in Tahiti. I finally went swimming for the first time (in Tahiti/Moorea) yesterday (Sunday, Eclipse day). Wow. I was surprised to find there are not really a lot of beaches with sand to swim at in Tahiti, and the few places that are, one needs a car to get there. Oh, not to mention the buses stop at 5pm and don’t run at all on Sundays. Hmmm.
I really shouldn’t say swimming; it was more like playing in water with a dinghy raft up on a sandbar. Actually, we played volleyball with a net set up in the shallow water. It was very cool and very fun indeed. The locals make their pontoon boats look like Tiki huts and their were many of them on the sandbar. Some of the Tiki boats even had BBQs on stilts sitting in the water.

With just a few remaining chores/ repairs to be made we had nothing holding us back from leaving except for the fact we wanted more crew. Well, that didn’t seem to be a problem either. As soon as we posted an ad on the bulletin board, voila, we had interested parties. It seemed like Tahiti was the place for boat musical chairs, so to speak.

In the end, we got 2 very nice ladies to join as crew. Mona, the first to join, is from Denmark, and Paula is from Australia. Both women are only short term as they have places to go/be by the middle/end of August. That’s okay with me, it’s back to girls rule……. :) Meow!

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Update- We are in Australia!

Greetings from the land down under! Yes, we are in Australia. However, don't fear, now that we can get decent Internet all the stories from the last 3 months will be posted, as well as all the promised photos!

To recap, after Tahiti we sailed up to Huahine, then to Raiatea & Taha'a, to Bora Bora, and lastly onto beautiful Maupiti. We spend 84 out of our 90 days (visa) in Polynesia! Wow, I still can't believe it. From FP we sailed over to Rarotonga in the Cook Islands. This is where we disembarked off of Nyami Nyami. I had had enough of sailing and the turtle pace (land turtle, that is).

Bring on the sunshine. Oh ya, it's winter here in the land down under. We'll be heading north fast. You heard correctly, north is the direction for the warm weather and they drive on the opposite side of the road too! The southern hemisphere is so confusing for a dyslexic kitty! Meow