Thursday, March 5, 2009

Alamos

Our first stop (second really, but the 1st one to Obergon was nothing to see) of any significance was a little town called Alamos. We arrived in the early afternoon, and in the stifling heat of the day. As we made our way to the center of town, down narrow cobblestone streets, the town was a buzz with activity and smells of tasty treats. Oh the taco stands smells, even a vegetarian can appreciate the mesquite, and peppers, and onions, and salsa, and spices…. Okay, so we were hungry when we arrived, and I was craving a margarita big time.

First up, find accommodations. I spied a cute little hotel on the square on the way in, and Brian saw a sign for another. We head over to my choice first. It’s clean, fairly large and very charming. However, when asked about price, Gringo rates were in effect! We decide to head over to Brian’s choice since the sign stated the price as $450 pesos ($14.5 / $1usd, you do the math.)

Los Arcos hotel was just on the square, upstairs and by far the cutest, nicest, cleanest, most reasonable accommodations we have had so far. The bed was even soft. Most are like bricks, I don’t know why, maybe they got ‘em from China! Theirs were like sleeping on mattress made of plywood. Anyhow, back on topic, Alamos was everything people said it would be, a charming town with loads of character, history, and a throw back to an earlier time.

Exploring around town on foot, we come across the actual city square. The one we thought was the city center, was actually the “less uppity” people’s square, known for their cheap, tasty eats - best around. The alley we came down to get to the real square (the one with the cathedral), was kissing alley, too small for any cars to use. We stumble across a bookstore, where we pick up a copy of Lonely Planet Mexico (in English of course) and a map of the Copper Canyon - our next destination (and the main focus of our trip inland). Amazing, that we did not have a guidebook with us before, and being the seasoned travelers, I can’t believe I didn’t think to get one. Now we were definitely armed and dangerous.

Alamos has an incredible history dating back to 1540 and reminds Brian of old New Orleans. Once one of the biggest silver mining towns around, it swelled to 30,000 people. In the late 1800’s, it was all but abandoned before an American purchased it in 1948 and re-invented the place. Now there is a mix of retired American and Mexican’s living there.

Per the good book, Brian and I headed out to eat at all the places we could, see all the sites recommended, and do the activities in this cool little town. Oh, did I mention it was the start of Carnival, and it was Sunday? I say Sunday, because all the celebrating happens Sunday nights, not Saturdays here in Mexico.

As we sipped our fine Margaritas on the veranda across from the church square, we notice people starting to gather. We didn't think much of it, but did notice that no one heading into the church for service (at 6pm), rather, they were just sitting in the square. Food booths were being set up and the ladies sat in the benches, all seem to have boxfuls of these eggs, some colored. We head back to our room and prepared to go to dinner.

I decide to give Chili Rellenos another try. The first attempt in La Paz resulted in me swearing off the traditional dish, as disgusting. The book even mentioned an Alamos spot as one of the best in all of Sonora (the state). The results were the same, we head back to the hotel, me feeling disgusted and just wanting to lie down. However, Brian headed down for water and to check out all the racket outside. It was the Carnival parade. This is where things get a bit crazy!

After some debate, he convinces me to come downstairs and head back to the church square to see what all the fuss is about. Clueeless, we arrive at the chaos (LOL). There are the young kids(running around) and old (sitting watching, and enjoying I might add) all participating in their own way. Laughter filled the night. I have never experienced anything like it. I decide to get in on the act.

So, you know those egg things I mentioned above? Well, they were actual eggshells, with the yolk removed by carefully cracking off just one end, then cleaned out and filled with confetti. A piece of colored paper mache covered the hole. For a mere 15 pesos (in the beginning, then it dropped to 10), you could get a bag full of these eggs, like 15.

Apparently, the object of this activity was to run around and smash these on the head of an un-expecting victim. Yes, I said victim, because I became the most wanted in the entire square. Oh, did I mention that most of the participants were under the age of 12 and none of them were gringos? Yes, can you say "target", two huge, six-foot tall, blonde, gringo, targets? Good. It was so much fun. Smashing and confetti everywhere and the running and the laughing - you get the point. The entire time, everyone else was watching and enjoying. The square was literally covered, every inch of it, in confetti. I went through 3 bags, Brian, 2. In my defense, well yes, it was my defense. I was getting creamed, I mean egged. I had to run for my life, really. Brian tried to take pictures of it, but I couldn’t stand still long enough without getting beat over the head for him to get anything. We had to leave the square before we both had real concussions, laughing all the way of course. I still have eggshells in my purse! All worth it!

The next morning, we decide to head off to see the Pantheon (cemetery) and go mine spelunking (repelling) on the way out of town. The cemetery was really neat, if I can say that? They bury everyone above ground in elaborate tomes. There was even an older man at work in the pantheon, like something out of a Vampire or Steven King movie.

Next up, the mines. We would have to go out of town a bit to another town for this. After asking directions, we were on our way. Can I just tell you, the AAA map sucks, and the ones in Mexico aren’t any better.

…And the adventure continues.
For pictues of Alamos (68 or so pictures) click on the link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157614808043063/