The Tuamotu’s

Due to our tight timeline the plan was to visit the atoll’s of Ahe, Rangiroa, and possibly Tikehau. Of course things being as they are, we were waylaid by a serious lack of wind. The estimated 3 – 4 day journey to the Tuamotu’s took us 7 days and some tough decisions had to be made. The axe came down and it was decided we would only be able to visit Rangiroa. However, this is the most popular and biggest of all the atolls in the Tuamotu’s chain.
Navigating our way through a narrow channel that was severely ebbing, it looked like a white water river, but we didn’t care we wanted in, we arrived mid morning. Getting our bearings, we anchored and the girls jumped in for a swim.
We only made it to the next boat over and then Brian picked us up. Off to town we went, with Lydia deciding she would just swim in. After scoping out the area (you could walk from the lagoon to the opposite shore on the pacific in 10 minutes max), we stopped in a little out of the way resort/bungalow place for cocktails. The deck was right on the water, overlooking the channel that we had come through earlier that morning. Liz and I ate the best ice cream I might have ever had (vanilla bean, coconut, and honey flavored).
The next day, Brian, Liz, and I hitched a ride to town, 7.5 miles away. As we walked past the channel, who did we see come through? Yup, Escapade - The little boat that could and they were not having any fun managing the ebbing current either. Anyhow, we spent all day in town but at last were successful in getting on the internet, and finally getting some cash. The bank’s ATM’s don’t work when they lose their electronic connection and you just have to wait. Ahhh, the island life. We attempted to go wine tasting but the cellar was closed due to a “financial re-organizing”. Hmmm, too bad. We also visited a pearl farm but really the place for Tahitian pearls would have been on Ahe. That was too bad as well.
Well, we had a date with a lady Lydia had met the day before and were invited to her house for drinks. Somehow all 5 of us managed to find Claudine’s place and arrive within minutes of each other. She proudly showed us her magnificent guest house and property. She was expanding and had purchase some bungalows from the failed hotel we were anchored in front of. She is located on the Pacific side, not the lagoon side however. It was awesome but not to wear out our welcome, we dismissed ourselves at the hour of 8pm.
Due to the limited timeframe we had another choice, a pink sand beach or a visit to the Blue Lagoon. The blue lagoon won out and bright and early we were off & motoring the 15 nm across the lagoon to check it out. We arrived around 11am, dropped the dinghy in the water, and took off towards the shore. On the way, huge manta rays swam by and Brian quickly cut the motor, donned his snorkel gear and went in, followed quickly by Liz and Lydia. They swam with the Mantas and it was so cool. As we approached the area near the lagoon, there were hundreds of black tipped reef sharks of all sizes in the water. The lagoon, within the lagoon, was created by this amazing reef.
We dropped the dinghy anchor just outside the blue lagoon, made a plan to met back, and all jumped into the water.
The lagoon was amazing. It was a big pool of blue water. There were some sharks and a bazillion sea cucumbers but not much else. It was still neat but the snorkeling was best on the outside (but this was still within the main lagoon). So, we took off for the reef. This is the new best spot I have ever snorkeled and it was so warm in the water. Kitty in paradise.
Alas, it was time to go and we needed to motor back across as the only 2 channels out were on the other side. Tahiti here we come!
PS – I’m forty now.

I can not seem to post any photos on blogger so to view the pics click here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157624365033363/
Meow

THE MARQUISES- Ua Poa

Ua Poa

This was to be the last island we would visit in the Marquesas. It was a quick day sail over and when we made landfall, we immediately went to the grocery store. Liz had to go to the doctors for a cut toe injury. Anyhow, getting some provisions was paramount. However the next day we moved around the corner to a very cool little bay called “D ‘ Hakahetau”.
It was just getting better and better, each island. The snorkeling here was the best so far. Volleyball, ping pong, and hiking oh my! It was a blast. However, Monday night (June 7th) it was time to blast off. We wanted some time in the atoll’s (Tuamotu’s) and needed to be in Tahiti on the 19th.

And the adventure continues…….

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THE MARQUISES- Nuka Hiva

Nuka Hiva

The next morning we headed off to the “big island”, as this is the largest island of the Marquise’s and the most populated. Landing in the principal bay of Taiohae, we promptly found a spot to anchor amongst the many boats already there. Escapade immediately stopped by for a visit and we chatted until dark.
The next morning it was off to shore. After a quick visit to the Gendarmarie, then the bank for some moola, it was off exploring. This “main” city was really just one long curving street the length of the entire bay, ending with Rose Cosar’s famous Museum. It had 2 or 3 grocery stores, a couple of restaurants, a few pensions, Rose’s place, and not much else. The dinghy dock however had a cultural center, fresh market, an internet spot, and a Crepe Cart! The last, being my utopia. Latte and a fromage crepe- yummy and some ice cream.

Brian going to the bank

Talking & meeting a lot of cruisers, we ran into Liz who was looking for a ride. (We also ran into Elizabeth and Genieve that day. So fun.) Great, we needed crew and I really wanted another girl aboard. After speaking with her & getting the scoop (She was on that Junk replica that was run over and sank by a supertanker off the coast of Taiwan last year! Whoa, heavy) we left for a couple of days to go around the corner. Daniel’s Bay was the spot and it took just under 2 hours to motor over to this next bay. Again Escapade was already there.
The next morning, Brian, Jim, Brendan & I took off on a rain filled hike up to the waterfall. It was amazing single track walk through the jungle up a sheer walled canyon, but we forgot the camera. No matter, the picture is in the front section of the Lonely Planet South Pacific guide. If that doesn’t say anything about its beauty, I don’t know what else would. On the way back, we stopped by the fruit lady’s house and picked up a hank of Bananas. We don’t need those for a while.

In Daniel's Bay

Saturday we motored back over to Taiohae as Jen was expected to fly in. This is the same person we waited for in Hiva Oa. Alas, it was not meant to be. Don received an email right before he was to send a taxi to fetch her that she flew back to the States instead! What? Really. WTF! Anyhow, so glad we met Liz.
That evening Rose, a local legend, was hosting a cruisers party in her almost completed clubhouse. It was potluck with Rose providing some traditional Marquisian dishes. It was a lot of fun and here we met are soon to be 5th crew member Lydia. She was heading to Australia and she needed to get there by Nov. 3rd. Perfect. Two days later, and another trip to the Gendarmarie, it was official; we were now a crew of 5. Off we sailed up to Baie Anaho on the Northeast part of Nuka Hiva. It was really nice here. Swimming, snorkeling, diving and hiking – no store, no bank, a population of 8 people. Liz, Lydia and I hiked the pass over to the next bay, Atiheu in search of ice cream. Liz had been here just a week before on another boat so she led the way. It was steep but super fun. Boy, am I out of shape. So, I did it again the next day with Liz & Don, as Liz needed to post some critical paperwork. Guess what, Escapade showed up. So who’s following who? :) Anyhow, I took off the next day with Brendan and Jim in search of the oldest ruins in the Marquesas. We found them but went way off trail. We also found some green lime shaped lemons, some oranges, and loads of mangos – Yum I love mangos! I can honestly say it was a fruitful endeavor – Meow :) Jim being a fellow Gemini, I baked him a pineapple upside down cake that I gave him the night before we left. MMmmmm, cake.

SEE ALL PICTURES @: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157624387778206/

THE MARQUISES- Ua Huka

Ua Huka

It was almost 70nm to our next destination which meant an overnight sail. We took off mid day so we would not arrive in the middle of the night. Best intentions but we were a lot faster than we thought and arrived around 2 am! However, it was a full moon so Brian was confident about anchoring in the private bay of Baie Haavei. The next morning, we awoke and took a look around (it was beautiful). Since you needed permission to land on the beach, we decided to go around the corner to the “invisible Bay”. Maybe we could obtain it and / or go to the famous first museum of the Marquesas. It was not to be as we were foiled by a rather larger container / passenger ship blocking the entire entrance. Okay, well, off to the next bay, Baie D’Hane. Third times a charm! The little village was a lot bigger than expected. As we walked up the street and deeper and deeper into the island, it just got prettier and prettier. We had read there was a bakery in this bay and we were on a mission to find it. Along the way, we found the cultural center, a church, a Magesin (little store), some very nice people, and then a cruise ship banquet at the local hotel. Being bold, Don marched right in and started filling a plate full of fresh local fruit. That was until he was told otherwise. However, they did end up feeding us and we met some really nice ladies, vacationing on the island. Elisabeth was from Paris but was living and working in Tahiti, and Genieve was from the Basque region of France but living & working in Bora Bora. Anyhow, we all made fast friends, as they were not part of the banquet either. After lunching, we all decided to a hike up to some archeological ruins (platforms). We were way up there!Anyhow, we invited the ladies back to the boat for Don’s famous popcorn and a glass of wine. It was popcorn hour after all! After exchanging info, we learned that they were heading over to Nuka Hiva before heading home. This was great as we were heading that way as well. Maybe we could meet up, but at the very least we now had contacts in Tahiti and Bora :)

On the trail

ALL PICTURES @: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157624387618356/

THE MARQUISES- Tahu Ata

Tahu Ata

This was the second island in the chain we were to visit and we were all anxious to get going. Although it was only 4nm across from Hiva Oa, it seemed a world away. It is pretty remote in terms of amenities. We arrived just before sunset and anchored in the nice little bay of Vaitahu. The next morning however, our captain Ben was asked to leave the boat. WTF!!! Okay so now it was just us three, with Brian becoming the default captain. We decided to go to the next bay over with a better anchorage & snorkeling. It was only 30min away and once there, we promptly took the dinghy into the little village of Hapatoni. What was truly amazing was this place had street lights. The road was dirt however. We quickly located one of the many carvers (to which this island is famous for) and looked at his wares. Don tried to get a carving of his boat logo (a Nyami Nyami) made but alas, everyone was busy as they prepared for the upcoming Heiva (massive cultural party) in Tahiti / Moorea / Bora Bora. We watched the sunset from the beach as the bugs devoured our ankles before heading back to the boat. That evening another boat anchored in the bay with us – s/v Escapade. We had met Jim and his son Brendan on Hiva Oa the first day we got there. Their boat is 34’ and it took them 38 days to do the crossing. I would have gone insane!!! Anyhow, we invited them over to the Spirit of Nyami Nyami for movie night. It would be one of many run ins with the guys. The next day we decided to sail up to Baie Hana Moe Noa. We saw this place when coming over to the island. This was picture perfect, with a large, deserted white, coconut lined, sand beach. Now we are talking! There were several boats anchored here as it was also a good snorkeling spot. The following day we had a BBQ / picnic on the beach with Jim & Brendan as they also came to this bay. We snorkeled and hunted green coconuts as we were the only people on the beach. Cool.

PICTURES @: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157624387504978/