Thursday, July 15, 2010

THE MARQUISES- Nuka Hiva

Nuka Hiva

The next morning we headed off to the “big island”, as this is the largest island of the Marquise’s and the most populated. Landing in the principal bay of Taiohae, we promptly found a spot to anchor amongst the many boats already there. Escapade immediately stopped by for a visit and we chatted until dark.
The next morning it was off to shore. After a quick visit to the Gendarmarie, then the bank for some moola, it was off exploring. This “main” city was really just one long curving street the length of the entire bay, ending with Rose Cosar’s famous Museum. It had 2 or 3 grocery stores, a couple of restaurants, a few pensions, Rose’s place, and not much else. The dinghy dock however had a cultural center, fresh market, an internet spot, and a Crepe Cart! The last, being my utopia. Latte and a fromage crepe- yummy and some ice cream.
Brian going to the bank

Talking & meeting a lot of cruisers, we ran into Liz who was looking for a ride. (We also ran into Elizabeth and Genieve that day. So fun.) Great, we needed crew and I really wanted another girl aboard. After speaking with her & getting the scoop (She was on that Junk replica that was run over and sank by a supertanker off the coast of Taiwan last year! Whoa, heavy) we left for a couple of days to go around the corner. Daniel’s Bay was the spot and it took just under 2 hours to motor over to this next bay. Again Escapade was already there.
The next morning, Brian, Jim, Brendan & I took off on a rain filled hike up to the waterfall. It was amazing single track walk through the jungle up a sheer walled canyon, but we forgot the camera. No matter, the picture is in the front section of the Lonely Planet South Pacific guide. If that doesn’t say anything about its beauty, I don’t know what else would. On the way back, we stopped by the fruit lady’s house and picked up a hank of Bananas. We don’t need those for a while.
In Daniel's Bay
Saturday we motored back over to Taiohae as Jen was expected to fly in. This is the same person we waited for in Hiva Oa. Alas, it was not meant to be. Don received an email right before he was to send a taxi to fetch her that she flew back to the States instead! What? Really. WTF! Anyhow, so glad we met Liz.
That evening Rose, a local legend, was hosting a cruisers party in her almost completed clubhouse. It was potluck with Rose providing some traditional Marquisian dishes. It was a lot of fun and here we met are soon to be 5th crew member Lydia. She was heading to Australia and she needed to get there by Nov. 3rd. Perfect. Two days later, and another trip to the Gendarmarie, it was official; we were now a crew of 5. Off we sailed up to Baie Anaho on the Northeast part of Nuka Hiva. It was really nice here. Swimming, snorkeling, diving and hiking – no store, no bank, a population of 8 people. Liz, Lydia and I hiked the pass over to the next bay, Atiheu in search of ice cream. Liz had been here just a week before on another boat so she led the way. It was steep but super fun. Boy, am I out of shape. So, I did it again the next day with Liz & Don, as Liz needed to post some critical paperwork. Guess what, Escapade showed up. So who’s following who? :) Anyhow, I took off the next day with Brendan and Jim in search of the oldest ruins in the Marquesas. We found them but went way off trail. We also found some green lime shaped lemons, some oranges, and loads of mangos – Yum I love mangos! I can honestly say it was a fruitful endeavor – Meow :) Jim being a fellow Gemini, I baked him a pineapple upside down cake that I gave him the night before we left. MMmmmm, cake.