El Chepe - the Train

The Plan:
I love train travel so I was totally looking forward to this part of the trip. On the way up the canyon (sea level to 7,000 + feet), we were going 1st class. No really, we planned to take the Premier train. It was more expensive, but fit into our time line better and would get us to our 1st stop faster. Did I also mention, it has a bar car & dinning car in it? After all, we were traveling on Fat Tuesday! Not knowing what we would encounter and not having a hotel reservation, we felt this school of thought would boded well for us.

After review of the guide book and advice from others, we decided we would first stop in Posada Barrancas. The next day we would hike down to the bottom of the canyon and back up in time to catch the economical train. This train, which all the locals take, lags at least 2 hours behind the 1st class train and makes more stops. This would put us at our 2nd & final stop, Creel, around 6pm or so we thought. We would stay there for 2 nights and return on Friday. To return we would take the economical train all the way back to El Fuerte. As we would later find out, it was half the price of the 1st class train and not that much different. Well, no bar car! So that was the plan.

The Reality:
The train was amazing, not only because of the scenic beauty but also the engineering feat of how/where they laid the track. It had to maintain a 2.5% grade and go through 89 or so tunnels and 30 or so bridges. The train track even makes a 360 degree turn, crazy, I know!

So the 1st class train was much more expensive (50%) than we thought it was going to be, and boy was it slow. I guess it was that way to let all the people take in the scenery. We could walk anywhere on the train and even stand outside between cars for some great photos. Oh, did I mention the train is always notoriously late? No worries, at 9:10am we were on our way!

At 10am we were sitting in the bar car drinking our 2$, Fat Tuesday, or how I like to say it "Feliz Gordo Martis", Margaritas. As we started climbing up the canyon, the black oak trees started disappearing, replaced by pines. We even saw some aspens. The weather was great and instead of cooling down substantially, like we thought it would, it was very warm.

Around 2pm, we arrive at our first destination, Posada Barrancas. We exit the train, with what must of been 3 or 4 tour groups . It was a bit chaotic so Brian & I just push through the crowd and walk past the buses before we questioned, where the heck are we, and where are we suppose to be going? And the adventure continues.......

Pictures can be found: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157615388815190/

We found a boat!

We found this gem on the river on our way to El Fuertes. Its got a hot tub and everything Sleep 6. 4 inside and 2 on hammocks outside. The sundeck is the best part.

El Fuerte (the Fort)

Where are we, are you sure we are on the right road? I hope we get there soon because the gas light’s been on for 10 minutes, and there is nothing in sight. Did I mention that the AAA map sucks. We aren’t lost, just saving 50m by using a secondary paved road.

Diving in the middle of nowhere, through corn fields, then dessert, we finally emerge from the boondocks, into El Fuerte. Another cute town with a lot of history, abuzz with energy and people. With a place picked out to stay, from the good book, we head towards the Mirador (overlook) Where there is a reproduction of a Spanish fort. The hotel is right next to it, called Rio Vista(river view) and is suppose to be very colorful. This ended up meaning, in a good way, not funky. It was awesome and totally reasonable, again. We got a terrific room, overlooking the river, complete with sunset. The room in itself was amazing - big, with hand painted beautiful murals, huge fully slated bathroom, and decorated in a very traditional way. The hotel was started by a Mexican man who worked his way up as a shoeshine kid who saved his tips.

Since it was late, we decide just to eat in the mural covered dinning room at the hotel. I can’t say enough, it was terrific. A three course meal featuring fresh black bass caught just hours before, cooked to perfection, very homemade. We even manage to set up a ride to the train station, parking for the car while we were gone, and breakfast in the morning. The total package was less than $60usd.

Breakfast was again, amazing. Off to the train we went, we will definitely be coming back here….

Pictures available at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157615071206714/

La Aduana

Next up. mine spelunking (Aduana Mines)! Woowho, I'm ready for a little adrenaline rush, r u? Finding this town was a bit of an adventure in itself, but alas, we were there. But where exactly were we? To say the town square was small, especially compared to Alamos was an understatement. Along with the fact that it seemed utterly deserted we questioned if we were actually in the correct place.

Well, when in doubt, go shopping. The women's co-op artisan store was on the corner. I picked up a lovely scarf and meet the local women who sat on the porch outside, making really cool stuff. During my purchase, one lady spoke some English, so I attempted to communicate. Well, it paid off and she led us down the riverbed/road to some locals that guided in the area.

Sitting on plastic chairs on the stone porch/ outdoor kitchen, we attempted to hire them to guide us through an old mine. After some discussion, all in Spanish of course, and thinking we understood what she was saying, we were on our way. To the mines! After hiking 45 minutes up hill, through a cactus forest, in the dry, dusty heat, we came to the opening of the old copper mine. We geared up, and made our final ascent to the mine we were to spelunk down (actually repel down).

We were at the top of a vein that ran down over 100 ft into the rock. The shaft was hand dug over many years. Onto the ledge! I decided to go first, knowing that I'd chicken out if I didn't. Who's idea was this anyhow? Oh, ya, mine! Did I mention I am not a big fan of heights? Yeah, well that subject seems to always sneak back up on me in situations like these. Okay, into the hole I go. After all, how hard could this be?

It was thrilling and just the perfect among of adrenaline for me. At the bottom finally, I look up and encourage Brian. As he comes down, I take a look around. There are butterflies (really moths) everywhere. You can see where there was a cave in towards one end. I wonder, how are we getting out?

Thank goodness, we don't have to climb back up, but we do have to go through a small opening. A spelunking we will go..... Not bad, really, did I mention I'm sort of claustrophobic? Anyhow, it was great, even if communication with our Spanish only speaking Eco-guide was a bit strained.

The temperature in the mine was a palatable 55, like a cool drink of water. Boy, it was nice since it was so hot outside. We turned on our headlamps and away we trekked. Along the way, the guide pointed out the various copper veins on the walls, and more 100 ft deep holes we had to step around, protected and crossed by tree limbs. It was just so neat to be down there. Alas there was a light at the end of the tunnel, and we emerged from the mine through the opening we passed on the way up.

Whew, that was a good time. On the hike down the tour kept on going. Lead by their daughter, she took us around the small town and up to the old mine plant. Thirsty, need water. Did I mention it was hot?

Finally, we arrived back at their home and our car. Brian pays the amount we had seen published, in the "good book", only to find out that our guides weren't the ones advertised there. Their rate was double what we thought it would be! Remember that conversation we thought we understood in Spanish? Well, we really need to learn the language, to say the least. Not to despair, instead of being $10 per person, the whole deal was $20/person. Still a steal.

In the car, we head off to our next destination: El Fuerte and a much anticipated train ride!

To check out the pic's of this adventure, click on link below:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157614880206219/

Alamos

Our first stop (second really, but the 1st one to Obergon was nothing to see) of any significance was a little town called Alamos. We arrived in the early afternoon, and in the stifling heat of the day. As we made our way to the center of town, down narrow cobblestone streets, the town was a buzz with activity and smells of tasty treats. Oh the taco stands smells, even a vegetarian can appreciate the mesquite, and peppers, and onions, and salsa, and spices…. Okay, so we were hungry when we arrived, and I was craving a margarita big time.

First up, find accommodations. I spied a cute little hotel on the square on the way in, and Brian saw a sign for another. We head over to my choice first. It’s clean, fairly large and very charming. However, when asked about price, Gringo rates were in effect! We decide to head over to Brian’s choice since the sign stated the price as $450 pesos ($14.5 / $1usd, you do the math.)

Los Arcos hotel was just on the square, upstairs and by far the cutest, nicest, cleanest, most reasonable accommodations we have had so far. The bed was even soft. Most are like bricks, I don’t know why, maybe they got ‘em from China! Theirs were like sleeping on mattress made of plywood. Anyhow, back on topic, Alamos was everything people said it would be, a charming town with loads of character, history, and a throw back to an earlier time.

Exploring around town on foot, we come across the actual city square. The one we thought was the city center, was actually the “less uppity” people’s square, known for their cheap, tasty eats - best around. The alley we came down to get to the real square (the one with the cathedral), was kissing alley, too small for any cars to use. We stumble across a bookstore, where we pick up a copy of Lonely Planet Mexico (in English of course) and a map of the Copper Canyon - our next destination (and the main focus of our trip inland). Amazing, that we did not have a guidebook with us before, and being the seasoned travelers, I can’t believe I didn’t think to get one. Now we were definitely armed and dangerous.

Alamos has an incredible history dating back to 1540 and reminds Brian of old New Orleans. Once one of the biggest silver mining towns around, it swelled to 30,000 people. In the late 1800’s, it was all but abandoned before an American purchased it in 1948 and re-invented the place. Now there is a mix of retired American and Mexican’s living there.

Per the good book, Brian and I headed out to eat at all the places we could, see all the sites recommended, and do the activities in this cool little town. Oh, did I mention it was the start of Carnival, and it was Sunday? I say Sunday, because all the celebrating happens Sunday nights, not Saturdays here in Mexico.

As we sipped our fine Margaritas on the veranda across from the church square, we notice people starting to gather. We didn't think much of it, but did notice that no one heading into the church for service (at 6pm), rather, they were just sitting in the square. Food booths were being set up and the ladies sat in the benches, all seem to have boxfuls of these eggs, some colored. We head back to our room and prepared to go to dinner.

I decide to give Chili Rellenos another try. The first attempt in La Paz resulted in me swearing off the traditional dish, as disgusting. The book even mentioned an Alamos spot as one of the best in all of Sonora (the state). The results were the same, we head back to the hotel, me feeling disgusted and just wanting to lie down. However, Brian headed down for water and to check out all the racket outside. It was the Carnival parade. This is where things get a bit crazy!

After some debate, he convinces me to come downstairs and head back to the church square to see what all the fuss is about. Clueeless, we arrive at the chaos (LOL). There are the young kids(running around) and old (sitting watching, and enjoying I might add) all participating in their own way. Laughter filled the night. I have never experienced anything like it. I decide to get in on the act.

So, you know those egg things I mentioned above? Well, they were actual eggshells, with the yolk removed by carefully cracking off just one end, then cleaned out and filled with confetti. A piece of colored paper mache covered the hole. For a mere 15 pesos (in the beginning, then it dropped to 10), you could get a bag full of these eggs, like 15.

Apparently, the object of this activity was to run around and smash these on the head of an un-expecting victim. Yes, I said victim, because I became the most wanted in the entire square. Oh, did I mention that most of the participants were under the age of 12 and none of them were gringos? Yes, can you say "target", two huge, six-foot tall, blonde, gringo, targets? Good. It was so much fun. Smashing and confetti everywhere and the running and the laughing - you get the point. The entire time, everyone else was watching and enjoying. The square was literally covered, every inch of it, in confetti. I went through 3 bags, Brian, 2. In my defense, well yes, it was my defense. I was getting creamed, I mean egged. I had to run for my life, really. Brian tried to take pictures of it, but I couldn’t stand still long enough without getting beat over the head for him to get anything. We had to leave the square before we both had real concussions, laughing all the way of course. I still have eggshells in my purse! All worth it!

The next morning, we decide to head off to see the Pantheon (cemetery) and go mine spelunking (repelling) on the way out of town. The cemetery was really neat, if I can say that? They bury everyone above ground in elaborate tomes. There was even an older man at work in the pantheon, like something out of a Vampire or Steven King movie.

Next up, the mines. We would have to go out of town a bit to another town for this. After asking directions, we were on our way. Can I just tell you, the AAA map sucks, and the ones in Mexico aren’t any better.

…And the adventure continues.

For pictues of Alamos (68 or so pictures) click on the link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/katnbrian/sets/72157614808043063/